Influential resident of No1 Savile Row, Gieves & Hawkes, held its press day this week and Fashion Buyer was there to delve into the tailoring house’s autumn 10 looks.
Here are the main points:
● Jacket silhouettes offer strong shoulders, a nipped-in waist line and a longer drop (as seen above on the econd picture down.)
● More db! 6db styles look trad but plenty of 4db cuts update the look
● Subtle City styling. Banker stripes are transformed with navy on grey
● Striped shirts use blue and black on white
● More superfine gossamer knitwear points to an abundance of transitional pieces and a global custom base
● The palette is tight. Just blue and grey with white except for a few warmer tones like burgundy in the late winter drop
● More casual tailoring, like the patch pocket db (pictured above, third picture)
● More fabrics are developed exclusively with UK mills including Savile Clifford, Cavendish and Bower Roebuck leading to more lightweight tailoring
● Chintzed wools give a glitzy shine to tailoring and outerwear
● The house check – blue and tan on grey – is being developed on wool tailoring
● Outerwear includes military styles and a shearling duffle
● The underlying theme plugs into the 1980s and the mood is all about establishment clashing with anti-establishment
● Overall the feeling keeps plenty of classic references but there is a youthful verve to it all
head of design Frederik Willems (formerly of Pringle and pictured above) is now two years in to the job and he’s happy about where it’s going. “We stripped it back and concentrated on the mainline. It’s fresh interesting and global, we have to keep that up,” he says, adding that the company will sustain its involvement with London Fashion Week after this February’s debut. “We need to have that aspirational element and a fashion house like this has the potential to push that.”
Willems has younger shoppers in his sights and is seeking to lure the younger breed of City boys back to the Row from brands like Gucci and Prada.Source URL: http://icip2idayusof.blogspot.com/2010/04/gieves-hawkes-autumn-10.html
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