With eight sub-brands under its waist-cinching belt, Debenhams is a veritable power-house on the women’s trends front. From Matthew Williamson’s shimmering party pieces to Betty Jackson’s thoughtful casualwear, the department store takes an immersive 360°approach to its fashion offer, which whilst catering almost exclusively for the 16-45 year-old age bracket, provides a kaleidoscope of looks which while nodding both to runway trends and popular high street looks, does so within the confinements of each designers’ inherent handwriting.
Today, Fashion Buyer UK presents a whirlwind tour of the key looks from each of the main designers, apart from H! by Henry Holland which was given a detailed analysis yesterday.
Butterfly by Mathew Williamson
Pitched squarely at the kind of confident perma-tan party girl who lives for bling, Butterfly (pictured above) goes sequin crazy for spring. Tribal patterns collide with disco sequins in a statement collarless jacket, and rarely does a neckline of any top, dress or jacket pass muster without a sprinkling of silvery beads.
Standout pieces include an orange dress featuring an Aztec-pattern bead embellished bib, a Breton striped belted dress with an off-centre floral print, and an animal print pink/purple vest with a gauze of diaphanous plastic sequins. A 1980s theme is referenced via a stretch cotton V-neck dress also in a purple animal print with ruched sides. Meanwhile, the goth-rock printed looks popularised by Religion and All Saints get a look-in through a vest dress with an abstract overprint festooned with sequin and jewel embellishments.
Star by Julien Macdonald
Another blingy outing, this time courtesy of Macdonald whose all-over diamond print leggings and draped blue mini-dress vye for attention alongside a multi-panelled bodycon mini dress with a banded construction and a cropped shawl-collared blazer with jewel studded lapels.
The sports-luxe trend so prevalent at New York Fashion Week comes through on a black zip-through mini-dress with a polished metal buttons and a shiny belted parka with epaulettes available in black or olive.
Betty Jackson Black
Betty Jackson’s offer (pictured above) is without question the most quietly considered and consistent of the Debenhams bunch, providing a neo Scandinavian look to its 25-plus target shopper. The palette rarely veers away from mustard, grey and black and the latest offer is no different, despite this being a summer collection.
Sports-luxe details inform some key pieces including a collarless double-breasted coat in mustard or black with cropped drawstring sleeves, as well as a mushroom parka again with sporty drawstring details. Elsewhere, a grey peaked lapel blazer in a heavyweight jersey shared railspace with a1940s-inspired sleeveless and beleted shirt dress with pinched shoulders.
J by Jasper Conran
Conran’s dressed down range (above) also pushes the sports-inspired trend with his cotton biker jacket emblazoned with a sea of zips and a gathered neck. Nodding towards Ralph Lauren’s vintage denims story, Conran’s boyfriend jeans, drop-waist denim tunic top and must-have denim shirt all hit the mark.
Debs backs blingy beaded embellishments in a big way for spring 10. The look even seeps into this largely casual offer via necklines and shoulders of Conran’s pink cotton tunics. Pleated chinos, batwing sweatshirts, and Breton striped knits, evoke a summer preppy look with nautical references underlined by a blingy gold satin blazer paird with a sleeveless dress with twisted rope edges.
Rocha.John Rocha
Sitting at the older end of the age spectrum Rocha’s look is all about contrasting textures with an outdoorsy feel. Without so many knits at his disposal, Rocha’s summer offer is always a challenge and this season is no different. Highlights include a buttermilk leather trench coat, a slouchy grey blazer in suede and a herringbone cotton biker jacket with nautical references such as oversized buttons and collar straps.
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