All eyes were on the Alexander McQueen presentation in Paris this week. This being the label's first catwalk appearance since the London designer's untimely death in February few catwalk designers could have felt the pressure as acutely this week as Sarah Burton. McQueen's former head of womenswear design, Burton took charge of McQueen's formidable design reigns in May.
Burton did not disappoint. By incorporating distinctive silhouettes and recognisable treatments her collection was immediately respectful of McQueen's design aesthetic, though her effort was by no means shackled to Mr McQueen's legacy. The dark theatre which cloaked McQueen's former presentations was played out with far lighter brush-strokes.
The beautifully constructed tailoring, kaleidoscopic semi-digitised patterns, and organic reference points redolent of Burton's former master were still present though there were softer more fluid interpretations too characterised by a deployment of chiffon bustles, 1970s inspired maxi shapes and more slender, feminine cuts than in the past.
Nature, and its victory over modern technology, provided the thematic backdrop for the collection. Made sense of by leather leaf-shape cut-outs pulled together by bronze cowboy-belt buckles, an autumnal woodland palette, one dress created from what looked like intricately woven sheaths of wheat and another a carnival of ostrich plumes, this vision of the natural world seen through the eyes of the McQueen brand was nothing short of awe-inspiring and marked a triumphant return.
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