Moda womenswear trends: key pieces round up

    Taken as a whole Moda can be schizophrenic place to cast around for colour direction. And while military-driven (olive, khaki) and neutral palettes dominated on daywear, the occasionwear tribe meanwhile, went all Quality Street, with in-your-face purples and greens for the prom set. (It was almost as if they had responded with amazing speed to the Paris Couture shows. They were certainly a touch bolder than usual.) So it was left to dresses to bring some more wearable pops of colour to the show.
    A parade of dusky neutrals at Elisa F was typical of the soft day dresses on show. These gentle cotton shifts and drop waists are looking ever more popular among the hippy-chic Home Counties shopper. An invasion into the stronghold of Fat Face and White Stuff? Just maybe.


    More colourful yet was this pencil silhouettes dress and strong shouldered bolero from the Spanish company behind Cabotine and Nicchi. The pops splattered on the black background look particularly strong and recall an 80s way with prints.
    If you work in fashion, there’s a chance that you’re already sick of the hoopla about the aviator jacket – this winter is “all about” it according to the style press – but there’s a good reason for the excitement. Face it, there are only a few classic coats and the shearling beauties from Burberry Prorsum (and now Acne) do look like ascending to the ranks. For those of us yet to climb to the heights of uber-directional cropped leathers, we have a couple of fail safes to fall back on. And when it comes to summer styles Moda served up the most relevant in the form of the lightweight trench from utility infused versions to this version from Junge, saturated in more colour than it ever will be in rain.

    The trouser is set to be big news but at Moda you would hardly have known it. (Yes we know, there were trousers on display, but only a microscopic few reflected the trend-led silhouettes coming through.) Nope, at Moda it was still about the dress. Granted just because trousers are going to grab market share, doesn’t mean we have to predict the demise of the dress and it is certain that they will continue to feature in the wardrobes of even the most directional women, and dominate the wardrobes of plenty more. With that in mind, clever detailing and silhouettes are still important. Check out the scalloped layering on the Chocolate Martini dress here.

    As we saw at Pure the previous weekend, draping is the most important development in dresses and though there were fewer drapey dresses at Moda, there was still a smattering of silhouettes that relied on draped fabrications to outline the body, like this Tarsiani dress where the scoop pocket style emphasises the hips.
    Also reflecting the Pure trend for ruching and tucking (which we mentioned last week takes its cure from Burberry Prorsum and Balenciaga) some of the more trend hungry brands at Moda displayed this clever detailing. Anoushka G’s twisted fabric here was one of the best examples on display in the whole show.

    And who can forget the world of preppy/nautical daywear separates. Be it Boden, Ralph Lauren, Jack Wills or one of many more brands that you take as your reference point, the yummy mummy, sloaney pony type has rarely looked more on-trend. For the grown-up, more mature shopper this is all about simple tops in nautical stripes, simply patterened wovens with contrast sections like this from Alice Collins (above), colourful rugby styles and jazzing up a simple knit with a special button or two.

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